6 days in Italy: 3 in Positano and 3 in Capri. And in my opinion, which this blog is just one giant collection of my opinions, not nearly long enough for this wonderful place.
After 24 hours of never-ending travel, we finally made it to our hotel in Positano and feel asleep after eating dinner at Le Sirenuse.
The next morning we woke up in paradise.
After sitting/ sleeping on a plane to Paris, waiting 2 hours in Charles De Gaulle for our connection, taking another 3 hour plane ride to Naples and riding a bus for what seemed like 7 hours, we were excited about exploring the city on foot and started bright and early after a healthy dose of cappuccinos at the cafe.
Positano is a city nestled into the cliffside of Southern Italy’s Amalfi Coast. Most every corner of this perfect village is visually recognizable with it’s stacking houses and pebbled coastline. Positano has two roads for cars and throughout these two roads are narrow passages between houses lined with stairs in every direction.
So we started climbing up.
Houses are nestled next to businesses and beautiful Italian women pass you gossiping in their native language as you trudge up and up and up forever winded by the sheer physical activity and awe-inspiring views in every direction. Finally, the stairs leveled off and we found ourselves in a courtyard able to catch our first breath and drink in the beautiful views of the city below.
But our desire to explore kept us moving up to the top of the mountain and back on the main road squeezing between parked cars and scooters zooming by.
Passing florists, olive gardens and markets with the most beautiful ugly vegetables I’ve ever seen.
I don’t understand why American’s waste so much money on having aesthetically pleasing food to look at, half of the veggies in the bodegas in Italy had some sort of ugly feature to it or imperfection. As we rounded the corner on the opposite end of the city we got a glimpse of the most notable image of Positano. And a spectacular view of the bright blue Mediterranean. That quickly lead to some quintessential Positano shopping.
After a morning full of walking the entire city of Positano we returned to our hotel to grab our room key and quickly change before we set off and sought out lunch.
With one final peek off our balcony at the spectacular view we woke up to every morning.
I could drink in this view for an eternity and never tire of it’s beauty.
Since Positano is located right on the coastline and has almost no shade from the sun on a cloudless day, the temperature sky rocketed into a lovely 75 degrees, which for me meant a change of clothes out of jeans and into something more flowy and cool.
We climbed down into the city square, letting our stomachs be the tour guide for our eyes.
After roughly 348 stairs down (yes, I counted) we finally made it to the square and heard the laughter of kids playing futball in the streets and walked through clouds of smoke hovering around the men taking lunch breaks from their work.
While meandering through the square looking for lunch, we saw teens playing volleyball on the beach as tourists and visitors alike climb off of ferries that sail around the Amalfi Coast crowding the restaurants on the square with their foreign languages and eager expressions.
So we decided to do some more exploring down the coast line in search of some beach side eats.
After passing by the aquamarine blue water and losing sight of Positano, we found a small cliff side restaurant called “lo guariacino”. With only 3 groups of people in the restaurant and two of them being Italians we thought we had hit the jackpot and settled in for a long lunch.
Which, undoubtedly, consisted of pizza for the both of us and a jar of “local wine” served up in a ceramic painted pitcher and cost all of 6 Euro for 1 litre.
After filling our bellies with pizza and paying our waiter, we sluggishly dragged ourselves out of our chairs and continued westward as far as the path would take us. Walking off some calories which would soon be replaced by the best gelato in the town from Buca di Bacco right on the beach in the main square. And started making our way back up the stairs to our hotel. Our hotel, one of the most wonderful boutique hotels I’ve stayed at, has everything you need on a trip abroad: free wifi, a place to sleep, great breakfast options, free cappuccinos, and a lovely concierge who speaks excellent English! Hotel Reginella offered us everything we were looking for in a hotel and we were delighted by the price! A spectacular option for travelers on a budget! Plus you really can’t beat the view. Or the gorgeous tile floors in every room, hallway and balcony. After a quick siesta, a shower and a change of clothes, we headed off up the road to check the menus at some restaurants we had passed earlier in the day.
The one we decided on was Ristorante Il Fornillo.
Like most Americans we dine rather early and found that we were the only ones in the restaurant at 7 o’clock when they opened for dinner service. Already starving we ordered some house wine and began scouring the menu for items that looked familiarly Italian.
Like Calamari Fritti. Which appropriately came served with four prawns and no marinara sauce.
Now don’t laugh, but this calamari was so incredible, we ordered it 2 more times and then split an entree (which for the life of me I can’t remember what we ordered, nor did I take a picture. Let’s blame it on the house wine.)
Calamari Fritti is not like deep fried calamari in America, it’s breaded in an egg based batter and is so lightly fried, the entire dish is something completely transformative and absolutely delicious. It’s a must try when you come to the Almalfi Coast.
After stuffing ourselves full of a real Italian meal, we headed home to sleep off our calories and wake refreshed for our next adventure in the morning.
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